Review | Bowery Road
Bowery Road, presented by the team behind Casa Apicii and Bar Fortuna in Greenwich Village, is a new neighbourhood American brasserie that’s all about local, seasonally inspired dishes. Union Square is almost overrun with American restaurants (you’ve probably already heard of local staples like Union Square Cafe and The Pavilion), but the latest addition to the area easily manages to stand out from the crowd.
Covering two floors, the space draws upon the style of its historic Bowery home; surrounding diners with steel, oak and leather, it has a sophisticated, yet industrial, atmosphere – think benches, high ceilings, and a 30-foot steel and glass chandelier.
Under the helm of Chef Ron Rosselli, recent executive chef at The Standard Hotel and former chef de cuisine at Locanda Verde, Bowery Road excels at making the most of its ingredients. Delicacy is the name of the game here, from the creamy Burrata starter (brilliantly balanced with blood orange) to the Amish Beer Can Chicken (beautiful to look at, with a succulent crust). A number of plant and grain plates, such as the Roasted Cauliflower, act as side dishes, with the USQ Market Grain Bowl standing as a main in its own right (a well-balanced mix of faro, quinoa, lentils and subtle vegetables, it’s a rewarding choice for those remaining meat-free).
Dessert is one course not one to skip, thanks to the talents of Erin Walling’s in-house bakery and ice cream program. The Strawberry Cheesecake is a decadent end to the meal, but the Rhubarb Granita is the real star of the show; consisting of hibiscus-poached rhubarb, keifir cream, and lemon meringue, it is essentially summer on a plate.
Overseen by beverage director, Kyle Tran, the drinks menu is a further craft-focused affair. Bookend your meal with a fresh signature cocktail – we went for the bourbon Blackberry Smash – and browse the robust wine list for a domestic compliment to your main.
In a nutshell: 4/5
Bowery Road is undeniably cool, while its fresh takes on American ingredients and dishes make it a standout in the area. Make it your next date-night spot when you’re feeling flush or when you want to impress your parents.
Words By: Grace Nuttall